Fish Care: The Nitrogen Cycle

For new fish keepers the nitrogen cycle can be intimidating. It can seem quite complicated and confusing, but it is actually pretty simple. It all has to do with bacteria and your fish's waste.

Basically:

Fish produce waste. This fish waste produces ammonia. Ammonia is toxic to fish if the levels are too high. So good bacteria breaks down the ammonia into less toxic nitrite. However nitrites are still toxic to fish at high levels, so bacteria will break down nitrites into even less toxic nitrates, which plants use for nutrients.

That is the nitrogen cycle for fish. 

Now in the wild, fish live in what is called an "open" system. Basically, when the water becomes unsafe, they can flee to safer waters. But, in an aquarium/fish tank, the fish live in what is called a "closed" system, meaning they cannot flee when the water becomes unsafe for the fish.

Therefore it is a fish keeper's responsibility to monitor the nitrogen cycle. A fish keeper needs to regularly test the water (weekly is recommended), to make sure the levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate are at safe levels and won't harm the fish. This can be done either using test strips for fish tanks or a liquid test kit.

Another responsibility of a fish keeper is to start the cycle. In a new tank, their won't be enough bacteria to successfully convert ammonia into nitrites and nitrites into nitrates. The cycle can't start by itself in a closed system. Not starting the cycle in a fish tank is the leading cause of deaths of new pet fish. 

So here is what to do: You need to start the bacteria, which can be done in a number of ways. Basically you need to feed the bacteria.

Sometimes fish keepers put hardy fish such as danios, tetras, and sometimes barbs, into the fish tank first. The waste from these fish will encourage the bacteria to start. However, I do not recommend doing this for a few reasons: it is extremely stressful to these fish because the bacteria will not have built up enough to eliminate the fish's waste so ammonia levels will get pretty high. You also might not even want any of these fish, so this might not even be an option. There are easier ways that don't involve stressing out the fish.

You can use water from another (established)  tank in your new one, or gravel from an established tank. This is very easy, because the water or gravel will already have an established amount of bacteria, and the tank will be cycled pretty quick. The downside to this is that you need an already established and still running tank.

In my opinion the best way to cycle the tank, is to use bacteria supplements and fish food. You can buy a liquid bacteria supplement at the pet store for just a few dollars and this will feed the bacteria and encourage bacteria growth. To help, add a few fish flakes to the tank. The food will produce ammonia for the bacteria. You can also go to the grocery store and get a shrimp (a dead shrimp obviously) and put that into the tank. The bacteria will LOVE it.

Here's a tip: When you see a bottle of stuff at the pet store labeled "LIVE BACTERIA" it most likely is mostly dead. Bacteria need oxygen to survive so if it is has been in the bottle for a long time odds are a lot of that "live" bacteria is dead. However it is still good to add to the tank to encourage bacteria growth, just keep in mind it isn't really "live" bacteria, it is basically just a bacteria supplement.

Cycling a new tank takes a while. Cycle  it with bacteria supplements for at least a few days (for instance I am waiting at least five days before I add my betta fish (bettas are hardy fish) before adding fish. It is best to only add hardy fish at this time. They should be fine because there will be some bacteria in the tank by now. Just be sure to test the tank first and make sure the ammonia levels are at zero before adding the fish. And only start with one to three fish. This way the ammonia levels won't get to high. After about four weeks the cycling should be fully finished an you can add whatever fish you want. Save less hardy and more sensitive fish for when the cycling is done and the bacteria is fully established.


Just a note: Cycling the tank without fish by using bacteria supplements is usually quicker than cycling with fish and can take as little as two weeks. I forgot to mention but you can buy liquid ammonia from pet stores to cycle the tank with. 

How to Set Up a Fish Tank

Here is a a step by step guide on how to set up a freshwater fish tank.


Step 1: Rinse your tank out thoroughly. They often collect dust in the store, so you want to rinse it out before putting your fish and the water into it.

(if you have a large tank that cannot be carried/transported, or doesn't fit under a faucet, you can simply wipe the tank down with a damp cloth) (a terry cloth works best for this)


You do not need to dry it off or anything, since it is going to be filled with water anyway.


Step 2: Thoroughly rinse out your gravel, being careful not to rub or grind the gravel together. Rinse until the water comes out clear. (this may take a while for colored gravel)

Step 3: Place the desired amount of gravel in the bottom of the tank. Usually one to two inches is a good amount. (when you buy gravel plan on buying one to two pounds of gravel per gallon of water in the tank). 

If you have any leftover gravel, you can dry it and store it in a plastic bag.

Step 4: Rinse your plants out thoroughly and make sure none of the color is coming off.

Step 5: Rinse off any ornaments (rocks, driftwood, caves, etc.)

Step 6: Place the decorations into the tank. Place the weighted base of the plants underneath the gravel to secure the plants.

Step 7: Install the filter. Make sure your read the instructions for your filter. Rinse out the filter cartridge and any sponge inserts and place into the filter. IMPORTANT: DO NOT PLUG IN THE FILTER YET!!! Filters are only meant to be run in water, so plugging them in (most filters turn on when they are plugged in, there is no on/off switch usually) will break them.

the filter cartridge

this is the filter intake (the water get sucked up through this part)

Step 8: Rinse off the thermometer (I recommend getting a glass thermometer as opposed to a stick on strip, the glass ones are more accurate and easy to read)

Step 9: Place the thermometer in the tank. The particular kind I have can be free-floating or it can suction to the tank. It is best to suction it to the tank because you will get a more accurate reading. Also make sure you position it on the opposite side from where the heater will be, and do not position it directly in front of the flow from the filter, you will not get accurate readings.

Step 10: Put the your light bulb in the hood of your tank and switch it on to see if it works. (if you have live plants in the aquarium, make sure it is a fluorescent light bulb, this grows plants better than incandescent ones)

(the rest of the room isn't really dark, the camera would only pick up the light from the tank's bulb though.)

Step 10: Rinse off your heater. Be careful! Only rinse parts meant to be wet!!! 

Step 11: Carefully read the instructions for your particular heater. 

Step 12: Place the heater in the aquarium using the included suction cups. IMPORTANT: DO NOT PLUG THE HEATER IN YET!!!! Most heaters are not meant to be operated out of the water, like the filter, if you plug it now with no water in the tank yet, it will break.

Make sure that the max/min water level of the heater will be in the right place. And make sure nothing is directly right in front of the heater, or touching the heater.

Step 13: Now you can fill the tank up with water! But first, if you have tap water from a city, you need to use chlorine remover to remove the chlorine and chloramine that is toxic to your fish. (If you have well water, you probably don't need to do this). 

Use the measuring cap normally included to measure out the correct amount according to the instructions on the bottle.

Step 14: Fill up a bucket with water, add the chlorine remover (water conditioner) (if needed), to the water and pour into the tank until the tank is full. (So that you don't displace the plants and gravel pour the water slowly onto an ornament such as a cave or rock. You can also use an upside down plate and pour the water on to that. (just remember to remove the plate when you are finished.

Step 15: Now you can start the tank's cycling process (I will do a post to explain nitrogen cycle, and how to cycle a new aquarium soon). I chose to add a bacterial supplement to start the process. (the supplement helps start a colony of bacteria needed to break down fish waste). If you used water conditioner, make sure the let the water sit for about fifteen minutes before adding the bacteria supplement. (I can't explain why, I have no idea. But that is what all the bottles of water conditioner and bacteria supplement say you should do.) Measure out the correct amount according to the instructions and add to the tank. 

Bacteria need ammonia to breakdown, so you can add a few fish flakes to the water. The flakes will eventually produce ammonia, which the bacteria should breakdown.

Step 16: Now you can plug everything in! (the filter, heater, light, etc.) BUT FIRST: You must install drip loops. Drip loops are simply a loop in a cord, making  the cord go down, then up before it goes to the outlet, so that if the cords get wet (since it is an aquarium that is a pretty good possibility!) the water won't run into the outlet (which is super DANGEROUS!!!)

Because some of mine went into a power strip, I used tape to create drip loops, and I made sure the power strip wasn't anywhere near where it could get wet. If they are just going into a regular outlet you probably don't have to use tape, most cords will be long enough that they will automatically make a loop. 

Step 17: Done!!! And almost ready for fish. Just let the tank cycle for a few days to a week and then you can add hardy fish (danios, tetras, etc.) (or a betta). If the fish you are going to put into the tank is not a very hardy fish, then you should let the tank cycle for about 4 weeks to fully establish the bacteria. Before you put the fish in you also need to test the water to make sure the ph, ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, hardness, and alkalinity levels are at safe levels for your fish.

Click this link to my youtube channel to see the finished tank:http://www.youtube.com/user/critterlvr6

responding to comments

I've got some comments to respond too, so here goes:

Are you almost ready to get your fish? Will it be one or more? Also was wondering, although you've probably already told us, how big/small is a betta?

I, too, agree that pricey isn't always better. You sure do your homework!

-Animal Gram 

(this comment was posted under my fish tank heater post)

Yes, I am probably going to get my fish an a week or two. The only thing I have left to get is food, which I will get when I get the fish. 

This week I am probably going to set up the tank (I will try to do a post or video on how to do that) and get it running for a few days to a week. I am waiting for a water test kit I ordered to come so I can test the ph levels, ammonia, etc. in the fish's tank. Once that comes and the tank has been running for a few days I will get my fish.

I am just getting one fish. Since it is my first time owning a betta fish it is better to not try to put it into a tank with other fish, since I am getting a male. The reason is that males will fight other bettas, and some other types of fish. If I wanted to put other fish in the tank I would probably do cory catfish because bettas tend to get along with them fairly well, but you need more than one cat fish otherwise the betta might target it for fighting, and to put more than one in, I would need a bigger tank. And some fish really enjoy eating betta fish fins.

Male betta fish usually grow to be 2 to 3 inches in length. Females are usually around an inch to an inch an a half but may grow to be two inches.

I didn't know it took so much stuff to have a pet hermit crab! I always thought they were simple pets that didn't need very much attention. Are the land ones easier to keep than the marine ones? Also, what do hermit crabs eat?
Sarah :) 

(this comment was posted on my hermit crab care post)

I am not sure what wild hermit crabs eat. And I am not sure what marine hermit crabs eat. But pet land hermit crabs are generally fed dry or canned hermit crab food which is usually a blend of fish, shrimp, grains like wheat (which I am pretty sure they wouldn't eat in the wild) , and vegetable matter like carrots or seaweed, and added vitamins and minerals. For treats they LOVE LOVE LOVE coconut!!!

It is hard to say which is easier. For a marine hermit crab you need a saltwater marine aquarium. Which means it needs to be large (saltwater aquariums are difficult to do in small tanks), so you would probably have lots of fish and things in there. For someone who already owns a saltwater aquarium, a marine hermit crab would be simple. The only thing really difficult about it is that you need to have a whole saltwater aquarium ( and they get very, very, complicated) (not to mention pricey). Which is why they are not very popular in the pet world.

So if you were a person who already had a saltwater aquarium and wanted to add a marine hermit crab to it, that would be incredibly simple and very easy to care for, but to do that you would obviously have to be already maintaining and caring for a whole saltwater setup,which is a lot of work.

So in a way land hermit crabs are easier in their setup, but if you already had a saltwater set up, a marine hermit crab would be easier.

Tips and Tricks

I am really bad about remembering to do my "tip of the week" each week. So now I just call it "tips and tricks" and do it whenever I remember. I just thought of a good one to do so here goes:


Tips and tricks: How to reduce that musky ferret odor!


Now, some people don't really mind that ferret smell (I don't really mind it), but sometimes it can get a little out of control and then EEEWWW!!!! It REALLY STINKS!!! Ferrets should pretty much just have a mild musky odor. It will always be there but it shouldn't be so bad you want to wear a gas mask around your ferrets. If you notice that mild odor of your ferrets is starting to be not so mild anymore, that is telling you something needs to be cleaned. (either the cage, the ferrets beds, blankets, and hammocks, or the ferret itself)


So to keep that ferret odor from becoming out of control and just plain icky, here's what you need to do:


Regularly clean the cage. Each day remove any droppings and urine from the litter box (or the cage bottom if you don't use a litter box) and weekly completely change all the litter and wash the cage. (either use vinegar or a specially deodorizing cleaner meant for small pets)


Each week wash your ferret's hammocks, blankets, and beds (these become quite stinky since the ferrets spend most of their day in them).


Every couple of months give your ferret a bath. For in between baths you can use ferret deodorizing spray. You can buy this to spray on the ferret, or you can get the kind that you spray on the cage and beds, etc. 

Quiz answers are here!!!!!

Here are this week's quiz answers:

WHAT DO PET GHOST SHRIMP EAT?

The answer is anything and everything that they can/want. Here is a bit more about these interesting shrimp:

 They are called Ghost Shrimp and sometimes Glass shrimp, because of their see-through translucent quality. (it helps them hide from predators). It also makes them difficult to spot sometimes in your fish tank. 

They have a stomach, (which sort of looks like a brain and can be seen right behind the eyes) (it is the orangish colored blob in the shrimp in the image above.) This stomach is often the only part of them that can really be seen clearly because of the food particles in it. 

These shrimp grow to be about 1 to 1.5 inches long and can live for a couple of years. 

They are often eaten by fish in the tank, so you have to be careful about who they live with. 

Sometimes fish keepers feed them to their fish as treats. 

They have ten legs and they use their legs to shove food into their mouth.

Like I said before, they will eat pretty much anything and everything. They will sometimes eat algae, but they are omnivores so they also need meat, and they tend to only eat algae as a last resort. As far as I know, there is no such thing as specially formulated ghost shrimp food. If they shrimp live in a tank with fish, they will eat the fishes leftovers. (if their aren't enough leftovers make sure to specially give the shrimp some of the fish food.) If the shrimps live by themselves in an all shrimp tank then what shrimp keepers tend to feed them is goldfish food.

WHAT DO FERRETS NEED FOR GROOMING?

The answer to this question is: ears cleaned, nails clipped, fur brushed, and baths.

Their ears tend to get dirty sometimes so they need to be checked regularly and if needed they need to be cleaned using special ferret ear cleaner, which can be found at most pet stores that carry ferret supplies. They need their nails trimmed regularly, or they will become overgrown and uncomfortable for the ferret. Their fur doesn't really tangle but a brushing now and then keeps their fur and skin healthy. Baths aren't really necessary but I highly recommend bathing your ferret every couple of months. It keeps their fur soft and silky and they smell way better! (Do not bathe them more than once every month or two because bathing them too often will cause the skin to dry out which causes the ferret to produce extra oils to keep their skin healthy which will increase the stinky ferret odor.) So baths are good, but in moderation. Ferrets teeth stay pretty clean over their lives, so they don't really need to be brushed. (that wouldn't be much fun for you or the ferret anyway)

Don't forget to check out the new quizzes!!!

Choosing a heater for your fish tank/aquarium

Finding the right heater for your fish tank can be tricky. There are a lot of options and different types of heater's out there so it can be hard to know what is the best choice. Here is some information that can help.


There are three main type of heaters you can use for a tropical fish tank:


The most common submersible heaters,


Under-gravel heaters


external under tank heaters




Submersible heaters are basically any type of heater that is submersible. These are probably the most common heater, and one of the easiest to use and the maintain a pretty stable water temperature. 


Under- gravel heaters are just like the names sounds. They are any heater that is meant to be placed under the gravel. Generally they are mostly used for small tanks that don't have much extra room for a submersible heater.


External under-tank heaters are not commonly used for fish tanks. They are not very practical for fish tanks and aquariums. Generally these heaters are used for reptiles, amphibians, insects, and land hermit crab tanks, not fish tanks.


Most fish-owners seem to prefer submersible heaters. They are easy to find, with all kinds of different features. You can get pre-set ones set already to an appropriate temperature setting usually 78 degrees which is good for most tropical fish tanks. You can also buy ones where you can adjust the settings to whatever temperature you need. This kind is good if you live somewhere that the temperature fluctuates quite a bit. One thing about submersible heaters that you must be careful about is that some of them are not completely submersible.


Under-gravel heaters like I said before generally tend to be used in smaller tanks. Most of these just raise the temperature a few degrees. There is usually no adjustable control. This is fine if you live somewhere that the temperature is constant. If you live somewhere that may get very cold, just raising the temp a few degrees will not be enough. 


I would not recommend using external-under tank heaters. They generally do not have adjustable temp. control, and do not heat fish tanks well. They are better used for pets such as reptiles.




When buying any heater you need to do a few very important things:


Make sure it is meant for your size of fish tank. If you have a thirty gallon tank, you don't want to put something like a heater meant for five gallons in it, because it will not be able to properly heat the tank and your fish will be cold and possibly die. You also don't want to put a heater meant for a large tank into a small one because they you will basically fry the fish. So be sure to read labels! 


Make sure it will fit in the tank! This usually isn't a problem for large tanks, but for smaller tanks under ten gallons it might be meant for tank that size but it could be too long for your particular tank. So make sure the length works too.


Always read the directions thoroughly!!!! Each heater is different. The directions will explain vital information such as the maximum/minimum water line for the heater. If you accidently completely submerge a heater that is not meant to be completely underwater, you could electrocute the fish. 




Here are some tips I have learned about buying heaters:


Watch out for "mini" heaters. You see one and say "that would be great for my tank!". However it may just raise the water temp a few degrees. If the temperature where you live isn't fairly high and fairly constant, these mini heaters will not work for you. 


Sometimes cheaper is better. You might think you should get a better quality expensive heater. For a large tank with lots of fish, you might want to do that, but if you just have a small tank with a few fish, go for the cheaper ones. I'll explain why in a moment.


Be careful about reviews and ratings. As some fish hobbyists have said " no fish keeping equipment is really 100% reliable". There isn't a single brand of heater that doesn't have problems. Generally someone gets a heater that works great, but someone else is going to get one that malfunctions, or you might even get one dead right out of the package. So save the receipt just in case you need to return it. So the point of what I just said is don't go looking for perfect reviews and five stars. You probably won't find them.


Now we can get into why I suggested buying a cheaper one. Yes, if you read reviews they aren't always as reliable. Sometimes they are dead right out of the box, and often the temperature doesn't stay 100% consistent or the settings are a little wonky (for example you might set it at 78 and get a water temp of 74 instead). Sometimes they don't last terribly long. However most of these problems are no big deal. If it is dead right out of the box return it and get another one. If the temperature fluctuates a few degrees your fish will still be just fine. If the settings are not 100% correct just fiddle around with the controls for a bit until the water temp is where you want it. 


I suggested a cheap one as opposed to a super expensive one because the problems more expensive ones seem to have seem to be a lot worse. True, they malfunction less often and tend to last longer but when they do malfunction it tends to be nasty. I have read reviews saying they exploded, or the heater suddenly got so hot it basically fried the fish. Most of these malfunctions end with  dead fish. 


I would rather go with a heater that's worse malfunction is it stops working (all heaters will at some point) or the temperature is slightly cooler than I want. If you really are worried about the heater suddenly dying, you can keep a spare ready.


So I would recommend a cheaper heater and probably one of the submersible kinds. 


Or if you don't want the hassle of heaters, buy a gold fish. They are cold water fish and do not need heaters. (of course goldfish need large tanks and have all sorts of special needs so even without a heater they can be pretty complicated.) (I don't know who said keeping fish is easy. ) (its not as easy as a lot of people think) (of course once you know what you are doing it isn't ridiculously difficult either)

Hermit Crab Care: What you need for pet land hermit crabs

Here is what you will need to properly house and care for a pet land hermit crab.

You will need some kind of housing. A glass ten gallon tank with a cover (and locks for the cover to prevent escape!) is a great option for housing one to two hermit crabs. You can also use cheaper plastic tanks but these do not keep the environment at the proper humidity as well. Wire and plastic cages (sort of like a hamster cage) are also sold for hermit crabs, but these do not keep the environment as warm or as humid as the crab needs to stay healthy. Glass tanks are definitely the best option.

Inside the tank you need a fairly thick layer of substrate such as sand or coconut fiber or moss bedding. The easiest and most affordable to use is sand. The hermit crabs also love the sand. They like to dig and burrow in it, and it is gentle enough that it shouldn't harm them when they molt. You can also buy calcium sand (hermit crabs need a lot of calcium) but it is more expensive then regular sand. 

You will need things for the hermit crab to climb on and hide in. A coconut shell crab hut is a great place for crabs to hide in, and you can buy them at most pet stores. Fake plants, drift wood, and decorations for reptiles all provide good things for hermit crabs to climb.

You will need a heater to keep the hermit crabs environment in a temperature range of 72- 80 degrees. Anything less than that and the crab can become sick. An under tank heater is the best option. It is easy to use and pretty affordable. In addition to the heater, you will need a thermometer so that you can monitor the temperature levels.

Hermit crabs need to be in an environment of around 70 to 80% humidity (they actually breathe through gills so they need to have fairly moist air to breathe or they will suffocate). You will need a mister (sort of like a spray bottle) which you can purchase at pet stores. You can also buy sea sponges at pet stores to soak and put in the habitat to increase the humidity. You will also need a hygrometer to measure the humidity. 

In the habitat you will need a few shells of various sizes for the hermit crab to change into. Three shells in addition to the one being used are a good amount. Make sure to have a smaller sized, a medium sized, and a large one. 

You will need a food bowl and food which is specially made for hermit crabs. You can also buy hermit crab treats at many pet stores. 

You will need to water bowls deep enough for the hermit crab to soak itself in, with a ramp or step structure to allow the crab to get out and not drown. There are usually plenty of these at any pet store that sell hermit crab products. 

Since the hermit crabs need both salt and freshwater, you will need to buy some marine salt to make saltwater with. Only use marine salt. NEVER use table salt, it is not the kind of salt that they need to survive. Marine salt is sold at any pet store that sells fish supplies. Any water that hermit crabs are given needs to be free of chlorine. (chlorine will kill them). If you have city water, then you have chlorine in it, and will need to buy water conditioner found at the pet store.

You can also provide small toys for hermit crabs to play with. Such as little balls made for hermit crabs. 

If you do not use calcium sand, then you need to buy calcium blocks and supplements. Most pet stores that sell hermit crab supplies have them. 

And I think I covered it all!

Note: If you have more than one hermit crab, they can live together but you will need another tank or two (it can be cheap and it doesn't have to be big) for isolation. The reason why is that when hermit crabs molt they need to be isolated from the other crabs. When they molt they are very vulnerable and delicate and can be hurt or killed very easily. So when they molt they must be put in their own temporary tank.(you will obviously also need a heater, bowls, sand, and a decoration or two, along with a thermometer and hygrometer for these extra tanks too.) (so owning one hermit crab is much cheaper than two or more.)

Another note: All the information in this post is for land hermit crabs  not marine hermit crabs. Marine hermit crabs live in saltwater fish tanks, (in water obviously). They are very different from land hermit crabs.